North American Turbocoupe Organization

Full Version: HG or cracked head-didnt overheat
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I managed to kill my 2.3T before I could put 100 miles on it! It was a tiny small little problem with running too much boost. [Image: biggrin.gif]
The motor was no where near being hot. Now, will I need to have the head checked for cracks and have it shaved like when you blow a HG b/c of overheating? I never blew a HG b/c of boost so I dont know if the repair procedures are the same.
Thanks!

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87 Ranger 2.3T 5spd
(2) 88 Ranger GT 2.9 5spd
86 Daytona Turbo Z 2.2T auto trans
Quote:It was a tiny small little problem with running too much boost.

Sort of like a case of the clap, just a tiny problem [Image: biggrin.gif]

Don't have the head milled unless it actually needs it. If you didn't overheat it, it may not be cracked. It's kind of like nobody can say for sure so take your choice on checking for cracks.
Yeah, I didnt think it would be warped or cracked either, but I wanted to be sure.
Another question. Would it be a good idea to reuse the headbolts since they were bought new when I re-gasketed(is that a word? [Image: smile.gif] ) the top end? Like I say, its got less than 100 miles on it.
Thanks!

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87 Ranger 2.3T 5spd
(2) 88 Ranger GT 2.9 5spd
86 Daytona Turbo Z 2.2T auto trans
have it checked either way a blown HG with not even 100 miles. how much boost? i didnt think my head was cracked either but it was and it was warped thank god the machine shop had a spair head lying around. that was mint no warpage or cracks. and just switched everything. double check flatness b/c maybe somebody was off. straigh edge anda feeler gauge will do the job.

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1966 mustang
1988 tbird
Note that many feel that small cracks may not affect the head functionally.

The original 12 point bolts are reuseable. The new torque to yield bolts are strictly 1 time use.

Yeah, how much boost were you running??
ummm...15-20 psi
While slowing down for a turn, some waste of space was playing games with their turn signals(left right left right...) while looking at me and laughing in the mirror, so I got pissed and stomped it. Dont know what boost went to but shortly after, the motor started running like sh1t and shut off. It restarted but ran like crap. Hasnt started since and Im not going to try until I get the problem taken care of. It does have a slight bit of "snot" under the oil cap, but not much.
Also, I might mention that there was NO detination and I have 12 deg base timing.
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87 Ranger 2.3T 5spd
(2) 88 Ranger GT 2.9 5spd
86 Daytona Turbo Z 2.2T auto trans

[This message has been edited by longbedGTs (edited 06-29-2005).]
Sounds like you blew off a hose. Have you checked the turbo to IC and IC to TB hoses? Right after I installed the gillis and turned the boost up a little, I blew the turbo to IC hose clean off. After that , it ran like crap. (till I figured out what it was and fixed it)

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White 88 5-spd. loaded w/o leather. .60/.63 T-3, full 3" exhaust, ported big exhaust valve head, ranger roller cam, K&N in front of the radiator, gutted upper, knife edged lower. Future mods...EEC tuner, wideband O2, lots to do on the suspension.
What are you controlling boost with??
Thunder: Give me some credit bro! I dont know everything about these motors, but I know enough to diagnose my problem as a HG/head issue. Boy! I wish it were only a hose!
Pete: I was hoping no one would ask. The answer is nothing...I guess I was using the gas pedal to control boost. *shrugs* Lmao!
I unplugged the WG line so itd get full boost. Trust me, I knew the consequences. I just wanted to see what this thing would really do!
...now I know [Image: biggrin.gif]

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87 Ranger 2.3T 5spd
(2) 88 Ranger GT 2.9 5spd
86 Daytona Turbo Z 2.2T auto trans
Quote:I was hoping no one would ask. The answer is nothing...I guess I was using the gas pedal to control boost. *shrugs* Lmao!

Kids, we are trained professionals, don't try this at home [Image: biggrin.gif]
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