Is there any advantage to using a 180 degree thermostat as opposed to the 195? Weather conditions in SoCal don't fluctuate that much, and last week I actually used my AC. We have hot summers and relatively warm winters here (70's).
(To my local friends: I live about 1/2 mile from the 605 between the 91 and the 405.)
In theory, the slightly cooler coolant temps will provide a little more HP. In practice, I dont think it makes much difference at all. A few years back, I changed the 195 stat in my Tbird 5.0 to a 180 deg, and noticed zero performance difference. Only thing I noticed is slightly less heater output in the winter. I am sure you already know this, but a cooler Tstat will only lower the temp the tstat opens, it will not make the car run any cooler if you have an overheating problem. BTW, if someone tells you the EEC wont go closed loop with a cooler tstat, dont listen to them.... that is total BS. EEC goes closed loop with coolant temps as low as 110 to 120 deg if 02 sensor is warmed up.
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Jeff Korn
88 Turbo Coupe: Intake and exhaust mods, T3 turbo at 21 psi, forced air intercooler, water injection, bypass valve, Ranger roller cam, subframes, etc., etc.. // 86 Tbird 5.0 (original owner): intake, exhaust, valvetrain mods, 100 HP nitrous, ignition, gears, suspension, etc., etc.... // 91 Escort: Bone stock winter car // 02 Taurus Vulcan(wifes car)
I kind of thought so, Jeff. Thanks.
I made a 160 degree t-stat. I bought a 302 t-staat and ground down the outer metal lip to make it match a 2.3 t-stat. Then used the rubber gasket for the 2.3 t-stat and put it on the ground 302 t-stat.
I tried a 180 in a previous Ford 2.3 N/A and it just seemed to run a little richer but not really any cooler, like Jeff said it won't help an overheating problem.
I run a 195* with my ranger fan and in winter could probably run a 212* stat just to hold it closed a little longer.
A fan is all this car needs if the cooling system is in working conditon.
No overheating problems; just asking a theoretical question. If there's no advantage to a cooler t-stat, I won't waste my time/money.
With a 160 tstat and a aluminum rad. I can run at 160 all day in the middle of the summer. That is until I hit traffic, Then it goes to about 190 to 200. That is hot but imagine how hot it would be w/ a 180 or 195.
Quote:Originally posted by redturbo:
With a 160 tstat and a aluminum rad. I can run at 160 all day in the middle of the summer. That is until I hit traffic, Then it goes to about 190 to 200. That is hot but imagine how hot it would be w/ a 180 or 195.
Once again, the thermostat controls the MINIMUM temp that the motor runs at when fully warmed up..... it has nothing to do with the MAX temp of the coolant (unless it sticks shut, of course!). If you had a 195 deg stock tstat, temp sitting in traffic would still hover around 200 deg. I use a 195 deg tstat and aftermarket fan controller, and temp (measured on a real temp gauge) after the car warms up stays in the 195 - 200 deg range winter or summer, stuck in traffic, or blasting down the freeway.
Also, coolant temps in the very low 200 deg range are NOT too hot! Engines are designed to run with colant temps in this range.
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Jeff Korn
88 Turbo Coupe: Intake and exhaust mods, T3 turbo at 21 psi, forced air intercooler, water injection, bypass valve, Ranger roller cam, subframes, etc., etc.. // 86 Tbird 5.0 (original owner): intake, exhaust, valvetrain mods, 100 HP nitrous, ignition, gears, suspension, etc., etc.... // 91 Escort: Bone stock winter car // 02 Taurus Vulcan(wifes car)
[This message has been edited by Jeff K (edited 01-29-2004).]