North American Turbocoupe Organization

Full Version: oil cooler leaking antifreeze
You're currently viewing a stripped down version of our content. View the full version with proper formatting.
Pages: 1 2
Getting a drip from the oil cooler between the filter and block. Tightened the hoses, which were a little loose from the engine swap and needed a couple of turns. Still leaking. Is this a 'normal' TC thing? Only after shutting down the engine and the pressure is up. When its running, no drip.
Any ideas? Do the coolers fail/crack?

Thanks
Could be that the hoses have a slight crack that when they are cool, will leak, but when they get hot will seal. Just a thought. I've never heard of an oil cooler itself being the problem leaking coolant. I've heard of them leaking oil when the gasket goes. Replace the hoses - they are cheap. I got mine from NAPA for 5-6 bucks a piece

------------------
Tony Sceia
Red 88 TC, Med Red with Raven Leather & every option, Walbro 255, 3" SS Downpipe with Magnaflow Dual SS 2.5 Cat Back system, 3-core Radiator, Star Stage 3 Clutch, Rebuilt T-5 Tranny, 4:10 rear, 140 MPH Speedo, New Paint, Headlights, Refinished Snowflakes & New Tires.

She looks so SWEET. Now I need to make some more HP & make the engine look good.

[This message has been edited by tps87turbo (edited 07-06-2004).]
I recently had a similar problem after a head swap. Mine turned out to be the hoses leaking because the clamp was a POS. I'm sure you already figured this out, but changeing the clamps with the car assembled was a real treat. You can only fit one hand at a time from the top or the bottom.

Replacing the clamps cured mine.

Bob Myers
Oil coolers have been known to rust out. Are you sure the hoses are good and also in proper position and clamped?
Since those hoses are hard to see, and such a PITA to replace, it is likely that they are the origionals, and are totally rotted out.

------------------
Jeff Korn

88 Turbo Coupe: Intake and exhaust mods, T3 turbo at 21 psi, forced air intercooler, water injection, bypass valve, Ranger roller cam, subframes, etc., etc.. // 86 Tbird 5.0 (original owner): intake, exhaust, valvetrain mods, 100 HP nitrous, ignition, gears, suspension, etc., etc.... // 91 Escort: Bone stock winter car // 02 Taurus Vulcan(wifes car)
Was still leaking a little when I got home, and was able to get a couple more turns on the clamp with a nut driver (flat blade screw driver wouldn't do it, with the access and all), and as far as I can tell, its stopped. I checked the water and its about an inch below the cap, but my concern is that the heater is not working consistantly. The hoses were replaced when the engine was swapped out, so it may be the original clamp that doesn't have the holding power any more. Will advise.

Darryl
The leak is stopped, but still no heater. Is the in-line valve for the heater core a possible culprit? Is there a current reading for the connector when I turn on the heater? The gauge is still moving from the low end of normal to into the blue while it should be very stable and consistent. Do I have a giant air pocket stuck in the heater core that won't bleed through?
There is no in line flow control valve for the heater. Coolant runs thru the core all the time.

------------------
Jeff Korn

88 Turbo Coupe: Intake and exhaust mods, T3 turbo at 21 psi, forced air intercooler, water injection, bypass valve, Ranger roller cam, subframes, etc., etc.. // 86 Tbird 5.0 (original owner): intake, exhaust, valvetrain mods, 100 HP nitrous, ignition, gears, suspension, etc., etc.... // 91 Escort: Bone stock winter car // 02 Taurus Vulcan(wifes car)
O.K. What is the fitting in the heater hose line behind the intercooler? Its got a electrical connector on it. I 'assumed' that was controlled by the heater setting. My bad.

Still no heat, even cranked all the way up. I can't imagine that after all the running time to and from work that any air pocket wouldn't have circulated back into the radiator.
i take it that you have the electronic climate control unit? That sensor that you ask about is used in the electronic climate control and is the cold-engine lockout switch. If i remember correctly, it's purpose is to prevent the heater fan from turning on while the engine is cold when you have the fan in Auto mode, because you will just be blowing cold air until the engine warms up.

[This message has been edited by JT (edited 07-09-2004).]
Pages: 1 2