Hi all, and thanks to those who gave me valuable input on the transmission. A Picture of the shifter is coming..
In the mean time I finally picked up a code reader, and got 42 and 65 KOEO continuous.
The funny thing is the check engine light came on for about 5 min on the way HOME from buying it! It was running pretty good and normal. Usually it has a slight miss after about 10 min of running. Sooooo...the check engine light goes out and it starts to run rough again.
I saw on another post Jeff K says it might be the vam, but the book that came with the reader says 42 is EGO: Rich; explaining the rich smell and bad mileage - replace o2. The book also says 65 is "Overdrive Cancel Switch not changing state (E4OD; transmission fault); or fuel injector never went closed loop. This goes with either the o2 or Jeff K's theory that my transmission was not right.
Any ideas?
Change the O2 sensor and then clear the contineous codes. Drive it and pull the codes again. my bbok says a 65 can also be a charging system problem where voltage was over 17.5 volts. OR the engine (not an injector) never went into closed loop OR
transaxle problem - overdrive cancel switch.
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88 TC X 2, 86 SVO, Main TC with K&N, 3"DP to 2.5"duals through Dynamax, Ric valve at 17+ and disconnected KS.
Elite Bodega 16" chrome wheels. Autometer pod w/ A/F and Vac/boost gauges. New engine: Total Seal rings and TRW pistons, ported and polished head w/ cc'd chambers,1.59"exhausts, SS valves, gutted upper, knife edged lower, A-230 cam, Race Engineering Adj Cam Sprocket, Crowlers, ARP head studs, and rod bolts. Walbro 255 HP pump and T-3. Centerforce II, KB subs and jack rails.
Thanks, Pete. Does anyone have a history of O2 sensors? Should I get the dealer one, or the Bosch (specific, not universal)from a local store. The price difference is like $30; and I'm assuming the "motorcraft" one is just Bosch anyway..
m
I've used the Bosch one. I can't remember positively but I suspect Bosch made them for Ford
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88 TC X 2, 86 SVO, Main TC with K&N, 3"DP to 2.5"duals through Dynamax, Ric valve at 17+ and disconnected KS.
Elite Bodega 16" chrome wheels. Autometer pod w/ A/F and Vac/boost gauges. New engine: Total Seal rings and TRW pistons, ported and polished head w/ cc'd chambers,1.59"exhausts, SS valves, gutted upper, knife edged lower, A-230 cam, Race Engineering Adj Cam Sprocket, Crowlers, ARP head studs, and rod bolts. Walbro 255 HP pump and T-3. Centerforce II, KB subs and jack rails.
I currently have a bosch one installed on mine. The thing also is to make sure that the connector fits properly some don't... But bosch should work and they did supply ford with some components for the birds.
oops double post
[This message has been edited by Ohio88TC (edited 08-31-2001).]
They come in different "pigtail" lengths, any suggestion as to the right one?
Has anyone had a problem getting it off? I tried last night with a wrench, but I guess I'll have to bust out the torch and breaker bar....
Just tap back-n-forth on a 6-point wrench with a small hammer a few times, it'll come out. They're supposed to have neverseize or anti-seize on 'em (just a little). But maybe the previous owner...
Quote:Originally posted by Matt S:
Has anyone had a problem getting it off? I tried last night with a wrench, but I guess I'll have to bust out the torch and breaker bar....
I think there was a thread on the old board about how to get them off. Most of the methods involved a large socket and about three feet of leverage. My personal method was to cut off most of the old one using a dremel and cutting disc so I could get around it good, and then use the handle from my floor jack (it came with a 1/2 inch drive attachment) to work it loose.
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Mike Walsted
1986 5-speed TurboCoupe .
[This message has been edited by Walsted (edited 09-01-2001).]
I use the Walsted method of breaking/beating/dremeling the tops off so I can get a socket/breaker bar/ pipe extension on them
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88 TC X 2, 86 SVO, Main TC with K&N, 3"DP to 2.5"duals through Dynamax, Ric valve at 17+ and disconnected KS.
Elite Bodega 16" chrome wheels. Autometer pod w/ A/F and Vac/boost gauges.140 mph Motorsports Speedo New engine: Total Seal rings and TRW pistons, ported and polished head w/ cc'd chambers,1.59"exhausts, SS valves, gutted upper, knife edged lower, A-230 cam, Race Engineering Adj Cam Sprocket, Crowlers, ARP head studs, and rod bolts. Walbro 255 HP pump and Kirban adj FPR, T-3. Centerforce II, KB subs and jack rails.