Guys, I am about to do a break job, but some guy told me that if I do it like a standard break job; I will destroy the ABS system. What I usually do is pry back the calipers with a big screwdriver or take a C clamp and push the plunger back.Yes, I remove the resevior cap. Is this OK or was he just pulling my leg? (I have 4 wheel disc/ABS)
The guy is full of crap...
Just push the calipers back in with the reservoir cap off.
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Dan Eaves
88TC 5spd, Crower 5.5" Sportsman Rods, Short Wiseco Pistons bored .030" Over, Ported Head with Polished Combustion Chambers, Gutted & Polished Upper, Ported & Polished Lower, Polished T/B, Ported E6, SVO T3 .63AR Turbo, 3" DP w/No Cat, 2 1/2" DynoMax single cat back w/DynoMax Super Turbo Muffler, RR Cam, K&N in Fenderwell, Gillis Boost Valve, Centerforce I Clutch, Removed A/C, Polished Wheels, Polished Valve Cover, Polished Crank and W/P Pulleys, Walbro 255LPH HP Pump, Kirban Adj FPR, and the DAMN Heater Core is new too !
NATO MEMBER (Vice Chairman...if it's a vice...I deal with it)
The rear calipers require the piston be turned to get it back, but someone else will have to provide the details.
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88 TC X 2, 86 SVO, Main TC with K&N, 3"DP to 2.5"duals through Dynamax, Ric valve at 17+ and disconnected KS.
Elite Bodega 16" chrome wheels. Autometer pod w/ A/F and Vac/boost gauges.140 mph Motorsports Speedo New engine: Total Seal rings and TRW pistons, ported and polished head w/ cc'd chambers,1.59"exhausts, SS valves, gutted upper, knife edged lower, A-230 cam, Race Engineering Adj Cam Sprocket, Crowlers, ARP head studs, and rod bolts. Walbro 255 HP pump and Kirban adj FPR, T-3. Centerforce II, KB subs and jack rails.
The rear pistons have to be twisted back in with a special tool(about $20, or ya can rent it at autozone,checker)DON'T TRY TO C-CLAMP THE REARS ! ! !
I was able to easily turn my rear caliper pistons in with a big pair of needlenose pliers. You don't need to push, just turn clockwise. One thing that makes it easier is to take the rotor off and then mount the caliper back on the car (you only need to make the bolts hand-tight), that way it doesn't flop around while you turn the piston.
Oh, and make sure the little locating pin on the pad goes into one of the slots on the piston. That's important!
Just some tips.
If you crack open the bleeders on the rear brakes.You all you do to bleed them is crack them open again and turn the key on. The ABS shstem will pump the fluid for you.The fronts bleed like normal brakes.
Turn the rear calipers in.They sell a tool that fits on the end of a ratchet for like 4 dollars. Also pull your guide pins for the rear calipers and replace them(were your rear pads destroyed on the insides?).I will guess that they are going to be stuck. A propane torch,hammer and penetrating oil will get the old ones out. Clean out the holes and install the new ones with Ford Dielectric grease. Dont use any other kinds of grease or antiseize!!!
If you are doing the front brakes also, do the ball joints while you are there. It is just too easy to do them while you are there and you will have 90% of the work done anyway.
Thanks for the tips guys. I am so used to tearing this apart at the jy, that putting things back together is a real task. I went to Autozone and bought that tool for 4 bucks. Your tips will make this job much easier. Thanks and have a Happy Turkey Day!
What i think the guy is talking about, is that when you push the calipier pistons back in, you have to do it slow, becuase the fliud runs threw all the valves in the abs controller and if you push them in fast it may destroy the valves, its nothin to really worry about. i done abs brakes with no problems and on my tbird i havent had a problem, nothign to be alarmed at.
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Brian J Larkin
18 yr old male totally loves his tbird,
1988 Turbo Coupe 5spd, dark blue
http://crazydriver358.5u.com